Today, Simon Childs from DFGFI, Claire, Tierra, Mike Cranfield who is in charge over at the Mountain Gorilla Veterinarian Project, Dr Denise who is volunteering with the local clinic and me decided to trek up some of the many hills of Rwanda to see if we could find a waterfall that is renowned for being spectacular.
We started our journey by clamouring into the MGVP truck and setting off in the direction we hoped would get us to where we wanted to go. Heaving from one side to another, we drove along the treacherous dirt roads that weaved along cliff edges. After about an hour of driving, our truck just couldn’t go any further. This was due to the 5 meter gap that barred the way. This gap could only be crossed by a 2 meter wide wood bridge that didn’t look like it could hold the hefty load that was our truck.

Despite not remembering this obstacle the last time Mike saw the waterfall, we plough on by foot. White people in town always attract attention; white people on a rural trail in the middle of nowhere attract a mob. We were quickly surrounded with children and adults alike asking us the few phrases they know in English. “What is… your name, the time, your job, your church?”

Mike, coming from the English part of Canada, often likes to make jabs at the fact that I come from the French side. These jokes are harmless but the stuff that makes some French Canadians steam at the ears and go on tirades about the oppressive English. However, on this occasion, he thought that perhaps my French may come in handy. He instructs me to ask a few people if they might know anything about a waterfall nearby. When I asked people if they speak French they almost always answered with an enthusiastic “Oui!” but only to receive blank stares when I asked about a waterfall. I further explained that it was water that drips from the mountain with mike doing hand motions behind me that were meant to represent water falling down. This inevitably got someone to start to show off his own dance moves once he saw Mike carrying on. Hilltop farmers apparently do not feel the need to discuss about Descartes and croissants in French.

Despite not knowing where we were going, we happily trekked on through the mountain roads and enjoyed the scenery that being on a hill between two lakes provides. As the sun begins to set, we were presented with a stunning view. Tragically, as has always been my experience, photos just never do a landscape justice. Obviously looking out of place, a very nice priest stops to ask us if we are lost. His French is impeccable and he tells me very kindly that we have gone the wrong way to see the waterfall we seek. After thanking him, we start to head back, not because we finally got confirmation of what we suspected to be true already but because the idea of a cold beer at this point was much too tempting.

When we get back to the truck after a gruelling uphill walk, we realize there is still one obstacle left on our journey: the trail we drove in on is only just wide enough to hold our truck. At this point, kids are swarming around our
truck and in an act of excitement; one kid completely breaks off our rear view mirror… on the driver’s side. With a sigh, Mike takes the mirror and begins the difficult task of trying to navigate the rocky road in reverse. We finally get to a fork in the road and turn the truck around. After getting all the kids off our truck, we head off to the Virunga Lodge which sits atop the hill a little ways off. The pricy lodge is absolutely stunning and the perfect place to have a beer and relax after a long day. The price of the beer on the other hand is astronomical which is why everyone is relieved that Mike had offered to pay for all our drinks for leading us all in the wrong direction. As the sun continues to set, we marvel at the view. Mike, reflecting back on the day, tells us: “That waterfall is really beautiful though if you do get to see it.” Waterfall or no, the day was really something in itself.

Hope you get to see that waterfall sometime!
the views are just astounding! and I imagine they must be 100 times more beautiful than in the pictures. I hope you get to see the waterfall too. And take lots of pictures of it :D haha I was picturing mobs of children hanging from the truck and it shimmied down the side of the mountain. Quite the mental image :P
One of the few truly handy phrases I learned in kinyarwandan was “the Muzungu is very hungry…he is going to eat you!!!!”….which worked quite remarkably well for dispursing large infantile hoards…especially if I licked my lips, bared a fang or two, growled, and then chased the runts down and grabbed one or two to throw them over a shoulder for supper…though, be warned, they all have low sodium levels…so I jointly recommend bringing a salt shaker along whenever you go out…anyways, just my $0.02.
hmm, good advice Sean but I think that might be a hard thing to do with the bigger ones. Some men had started to go up to Mike, having assumed he was the father and in charge, to ask him for one of his women. The real kicker was when one guy asked for one of his men. Not sure if this was a translation problem or not but Mike had a lot of fun offering us girls… and Simon up for sale.